When it comes to keeping your automatic concrete brick machine running smoothly (the kind you use on production lines), maintenance boils down to three key things: prevent wear, stop clogs, and fight rust. These tips are straightforward, easy to follow, and will seriously cut down on breakdowns while extending your machine’s life.
First, give the exterior a once-over: look for loose or bent parts like screws, belt buckles, and conveyor fasteners. Tighten anything that’s come loose right away – loose parts cause extra vibration, which wears the machine out faster.
Check the lubrication: make sure bearings, gearboxes, and conveyor rollers (all the “moving parts”) have enough oil. Top up if needed, but stick to the lubricant type specified in the manual – don’t mix different kinds.
Clear leftover concrete from the feed inlet and discharge outlet. If hardened concrete builds up overnight, it can jam the machine when you start it, potentially burning out the motor or damaging the mold.
Run a 1-minute test: listen for weird noises (like scraping “clicks” or dull “hums”) and watch if the conveyor belt and press head move smoothly. If something feels off, shut it down and fix it before using it – don’t just power through.
Watch the feed quality: make sure there are no hard debris (like stones or steel bars) in the concrete mix – these act like sandpaper, scratching the mold and feed pipes. The mix should also be at the right moisture level – too dry clogs the machine, too wet sticks to the parts, both making the machine work harder than it needs to.
Don’t overload it: if the Automatic Concrete Brick Machine is rated for 500 bricks per hour, don’t push it to 600. Running it beyond capacity for long stretches ages the motor and hydraulic system prematurely.
Stop immediately if something’s wrong: if you notice mold leaks, an uneven press head, or sudden increased vibration – don’t “make do” with it. Small issues turn into big (and expensive) repairs if you ignore them.
Concrete hardens fast – leaving it on the machine will ruin parts and cause rust. Here’s how to do it right:
First, cut the power, turn off the air/hydraulic supply, and wait until the machine is completely still before touching anything.
Use a high-pressure water gun or soft brush to clean leftover concrete from the feed hopper, mold, and press head – especially the mold’s gaps. Never hit the mold with a hammer or hard tool – you’ll bend it.
After cleaning, apply a thin layer of release agent or oil to the mold surface and press head (any parts that touch concrete). This prevents sticking next time you use it.
Wipe down the conveyor belt and check for damage. Patch small tears right away – don’t wait until the whole belt needs replacing.
Weekly: Do a full check of oil levels and re-lubricate all moving parts (bearings, gears, chains). Inspect hydraulic hoses and joints for leaks – replace seals if you spot any drips.
Monthly: Clean dust from the motor and electrical box (use a hair dryer or soft brush – never water!). Check the mold for wear: if the cavity is bent or the edges are dull, repair or replace it. A worn mold doesn’t just make bad bricks – it makes the machine work harder too.
Every 3 months: Adjust the conveyor belt tension if it’s loose. Change the hydraulic oil filter and top up the hydraulic tank (don’t overfill – leave some space for expansion). Tighten the foundation bolts – constant vibration loosens them over time, and tight bolts reduce shaking and wear.
Mold: Besides daily cleaning and oiling, never hit it with hard objects. When storing it, lay it on a flat surface – don’t pile heavy things on top.
Hydraulic system: Keep the hydraulic oil clean – no dust or water allowed. Use the exact oil type recommended for your machine. In summer, keep the machine out of direct sunlight to prevent overheating; in winter, warm up the oil a bit if it’s too thick (thick oil messes with performance).
Motor: Avoid frequent on-off cycles – don’t restart it right after shutting down. Keep the motor’s air vents clear of debris to prevent overheating and burning out.
Using concrete mix that doesn’t meet specs (too many impurities, wrong moisture level).
Letting the machine run empty or overloaded for long periods.
Spraying water directly on the electrical box or motor (or using the machine outdoors in rain) – water causes rust and short circuits.
Mixing different types of lubricants/hydraulic oils, or using cheap, low-quality oils.
Maintaining this automatic concrete brick machine isn’t rocket science – it’s all about “clean often, check regularly, and lubricate properly.” Spend 10-15 minutes each day on basic care, and do the deep maintenance on schedule. Not only will your machine last longer, but it’ll also keep making bricks efficiently and consistently – saving you time and money on repairs and downtime.
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